Shaving with a folding single-blade razor is not only a personal hygiene procedure, but also a ritual that requires knowledge, care and proper maintenance. For beginners, it is important to understand the basics in order to have a safe, enjoyable and quality shaving experience.
Choice of shaver: carbon or stainless steel
Carbon steel is easier to sharpen, gives a sharper and gentler shave, but requires more maintenance due to the risk of rust. It is the most commonly recommended choice for beginners as the razor can be easily sharpened.
Stainless steel has good corrosion resistance and longer sharpness, but is slightly less "cutting" due to the presence of coarse chromium carbides. Among stainless razors, Swedish steel stands out as having particularly good shaving properties.
Kamisori: Japanese-style razor
Kamisori is a traditional Japanese single-bladed razor with only one working side. Due to its asymmetrical design and different holding angle, it may be less comfortable for beginners. However, for experienced users, the kamisori offers a distinctive shaving experience.
Shaving characteristics by country of origin of razors
- French and British razors - the gentlest shaving properties.
- Spanish and Puma - slightly more aggressive, but still comfortable.
- Most Japanese and German - more aggressive, especially if the steel is hardened to a higher hardness.
It is true that the nature of the shaving also depends to a large extent on the choice of sharpening and finishing stone.
Benefits of vintage razors
- Exceptional heat and mechanical treatment of metalwhich is unmatched by most modern manufacturers.
- Precise geometry - vintage razors have virtually no crooked or poorly shaped blades.
- Time-tested quality - Most razors that are 100 years old or more are still perfectly usable.
There are new and used razors on the market to suit all tastes and pockets. Be aware that if it does not say "ready to shave" the razor will not be suitable for use without preparation, even if it is new. Factory razors only go through a rough grinder, and vintage ones will almost always also be chipped. In addition, the latter may have cracks and corrosion damage and may have been sharpened on a belt with paste, which makes the blade wavy. Even Shave Rready does not guarantee that the razor will be properly finished, as there are many finishing options available and not everyone values them equally. It is generally considered a satisfactory result when a loosely held hair is cut within 1 cm of the finger. Of course, this is again subjective, as hair can be very different.
Razor maintenance and sharpening
Sharpening: natural sharpening stones or artificial sharpening stones of at least 10 000 grit are recommended. Natural stones give a gentler shave and artificial stones a more aggressive shave.
Belt: before and after each shave, it is recommended to pass the razor through the belt several times. The best choice is a cordovan leather belt. Cordovan - premium leather made from the back of a horse's thigh. It has exceptional durability and an ideal texture for razor care.
Stored at: after shaving, the razor must be thoroughly cleaned, dried and lubricated with a thin layer of protective oil. Balistol or tea tree oil are ideal for this purpose - both non-toxic and safe for the skin. If these are not available, any mineral ointment can be used, but it is better to choose a product that is safe for humans.
Shaving tips for beginners
- Washing with warm water before shaving will soften the beard.
- Use shaving soap or cream to create a stiff and smooth lather.
- Shave while holding the razor at an angle of approximately 30° to the skin.
- Start on the cheeks, using short strokes in the direction of hair growth.
- When you're done, rinse your face with cold water and apply a moisturiser or after-shave lotion.
Storing the razor
Store the razor in a dry place, away from damp areas. If you won't be using it for a long time, lubricate the blade with protective oil and store it in a case or special razor box.
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